Proper Insulation is critical to the energy efficiency of your home and the comfort of your family. For southern climates, The US Department of Energy recommends at least 13-14 inches of insulation. Your home could be below those standards, meaning you’re wasting money on energy bills and increasing your carbon footprint. Designing and constructing beyond code—including quality residential insulation installation—delivers more energy-efficient, quieter, and healthier buildings, which can give you a competitive advantage. Your entire house, including the attic and crawl space, should be insulated to increase your home’s energy efficiency. Attic and crawl space insulation comes in several forms depending on the size and shape of the space. We offer both batted and blown-in insulation and a wide variety of other attic services to meet all our customers’ needs. Effectiveness and price vary, and our team of trained technicians can help you find what is right for you.
4 great reasons to insulate:
1. Greater energy efficiency
The value of energy efficiency is obvious: it saves homeowners money on energy bills and reduces power plant CO2 emissions to lower carbon footprints. The benefits aren’t new, but they continue to become more important as energy bills rise and environmental concerns escalate. Since 2004, residential electricity prices have jumped 39%. In fact, the average homeowner spends $2,200 per year on household energy bills.
2. Homeowners are demanding more
Energy efficiency and environmental friendliness are becoming increasingly important to homeowners. However, there’s generally a disconnect between the most frequently offered energy-efficient features and those that matter most to home buyers.
In research by the National Association of Realtors, 36% of homeowners cited home heating and cooling costs as a feature that homeowners consider “very important” in environmentally friendly homes. Insulation is a simple, cost-effective feature to include in residential builds and appeals to today’s buyers.
3. Insulating homes for sound
No one wants a noisy home—and part of delivering a better home is ensuring it’s built with sound insulation in mind. Noise can come from outside (sirens, traffic, neighbors) or within (children, TVs, music, etc.), and evolving home preferences make sound control more of an issue. Trending preferences for open concept houses with fewer walls or noisier urban locations make homes built to minimize sound more popular than ever before. Noise is complex and very situation-specific, so simply adding more insulation alone is not an effective noise control strategy. However, additional insulation will almost always be a core component of a smart noise control strategy.
4. Insulation can promote a healthy home
The health consciousness of homeowners continues to grow in lockstep with an increasing public focus on promoting general well-being beyond simple health. Asthma rates have increased, allergies are a bigger problem than ever before, and the prevalence of wildfires in Southern California means that ash and air quality are growing concerns. Homeowners are aware that their home can contribute to their health and wellness–or detract from it. In the residential building space, this means prospective buyers want to be given confidence that their new home was built with products that are safe for their families and keep harmful pollutants, allergens, and chemicals out. While no insulation product alone can ensure a healthy home, insulation and air sealing are a critical component of a comprehensive strategy for delivering healthier households.
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When evaluating any property’s insulation needs, our technicians follow the 25-point inspection guidelines set forth by the North American Insulation Manufacturers Association (NAIMA). Our complete insulation inspection includes the following:
- Cavity Fill. The batts or loose-fill should fill all standard and narrow cavities: no gaps top or bottom.
- Electrical Wiring. Insulation should be split or cut to fit around wiring.
- Electrical Boxes. Batts should be cut to fit around electrical boxes with a piece placed behind each box.
- Plumbing. Insulation should be placed between the outside wall and the pipes. If kraft facing is used, it should be in substantial contact with the gypsum board.
- R-value. The R-value should be marked visibly on the insulation, faced or unfaced. The R-value should meet or exceed the minimum code requirements.
- Fitting. Batts should friction fit snugly in the cavity. Faced batts can be inset or faced stapled as needed. If inset stapled, batts should not be overly compressed.
- Vapor Retarder Placement. It should be towards the “warm in winter” living area except in extremely humid areas. (Note: Kraft facing should never be left exposed.)
- Vapor Retarder Integrity. Taping vapor retarder facings is not standard practice. Small tears and gaps are not expected to cause moisture issues but can be repaired if desired.
- Vapor Retarder Materials. When required, appropriate vapor retarder materials may include kraft facing, continuous polyethylene sheeting, vapor retarder paints, and “smart” vapor retarders. (Note: Polyethylene should only be used in very cold climates.)
- Bay Window. The outside wall, extended floor, and ceiling should be insulated.
- Window and Door Areas. Spaces around windows and doors should be filled with insulation or caulked. Do not overstuff.
- Band Joists. Insulation with a nonflammable facing should be used for band joists.
CEILINGS AND FLOORS
- Cantilevered Floors. These should be insulated at the floor R-value requirements.
- Attic Openings. The attic opening should be insulated with insulated covers or a batt insulation piece at the same R-value as the attic requirements and secured in place.
- Attic Cards. A completed attic card may be placed near the attic opening when blown insulation is installed.
- Attic Rulers. When blown insulation is used, it is good practice to install attic rulers, one for every 300 square feet of attic area. The installed thickness of blown insulation should not be less than the minimum settled thickness on the attic card.
- Eave Baffles. Baffles should be installed on eaves with vents.
- Knee Walls. Knee walls should be insulated at wall R-value requirements. Insulation should be supported with an appropriately fire-rated backing on the exterior side.
- Air Infiltration. All insulation requires proper air sealing or the installation of a rated air barrier. All air paths should be sealed using caulk, tape, air barriers, or other air sealing measures.
- Wet-Installed Insulation. Any insulation installed with water should be thoroughly dried before covering with gypsum board. Humid climates may require longer drying times.
- Combustible Sources. Keep all insulation at least 3 inches away from combustible sources such as chimneys, non-IC fixtures, and heated flue pipes.
- Unheated Rooms. The walls, ceilings, and floors between living space and unheated areas should be insulated.
- Shower/Tub Enclosures. Insulation should be installed between tub enclosures and outside walls.
- Exposed Facings. Unfaced or special faced insulation products, such as FSK-25 insulation, are acceptable for exposed applications. It is not acceptable to place a flame spread rated facing in an exposed application, such as a foil cap sheet, over a non-rated facing, such as kraft paper or standard foil.
- Wet Insulation – Incidental wetting during installation is not usually a problem. Fiberglass batt insulation wetted with clean water can usually be dried and reused. All saturated loose-fill insulation should be replaced.
“25 Checkpoints for Inspecting Insulation Jobs” is intended to provide useful guidance on improving the quality of the installation of insulation products. Use of this guide does not ensure or guarantee compliance with building codes, acceptance by building inspectors, or compliance with any other type of governmental or building requirements. The use of these guidelines does not guarantee you any specific level of energy savings or dollar savings. The use of this guidance does not guarantee that mistakes have not been made in the installation process. NAIMA encourages consultation with individual manufacturer’s guidance on proper installation of their specific products.
They go the extra mile
NRG is always prompt and very hard working. A very satisfying experience. They go the extra mile and have come to investigate a problem and have not charged us for the visit.
Very happy with installation
Very happy with installation of my 3 zone heating system. No need to heat 2nd floor while we’re only occupying first floor and guest get to control their own temp in the “guest suite”. Installers were courteous and system is fuel efficient. Job was completed on time and clean-up was accomplished to my total satisfaction.
Very happy with their work and help
do not understand the negative reviews. I was treated professionally, courteously, and with expedience. Their team and my drywall team worked together to put up a new soffett, run the lines, and then put up the plaster and paint. The job looks great and the place is cool right now. Very happy with their work and help.
NRG technicians who replaced my system were absolutely amazing. They replaced the whole thing: AC, furnace and some of the vents. The poor guys come out all dusty out of it, but left my house without a grain of dirt on the floor. They also installed an attic vent at no charge. Great guys!
Got the A/C unit installed within a week from we signed the contract. Everything went well since then. Nice job!!!
Very pleased and I am a picky person!
Al C came to my house and fixed my 40 year old heater. Not only that, he ensured that my air cond. worked before he left. If he did not do that, I would be making another service call in the summer to find that the thermostat that I bought did not work with my air. He was really professional and did a great job. He did not leave until he made sure it all worked. I was very pleased and I am a picky person!